June6_Fikirtepe, the second most dense residential area on the planet. Neoliberal win-win model hitting the wall

During the last decade, the visuals of that “lonely house” (see below) became viral, but Fikirtepe did not need such an icon to occupy a central role in the public narrative of Istanbul’s urban transformation. After much-criticized early urban transformation disasters such as Sulukule, Tarlabaşı, and others — subjects of investigation in the first INURA activities in Istanbul — the now-mature AKP government identified Fikirtepe as the site of its “success story” in urbanism.

All preconditions looked perfect for a neoliberal fairy tale: the densely built-up post-gecekondu area had a politically conservative profile, and as supporters of the government, its residents were expected to be rewarded with one of the “wins.” Its location — very close to the lively downtown of Kadıköy and directly between two major highway intersections — made it highly attractive to the development and real estate industries, which were used to taking that other win anyway, regardless of whether another winner was foreseen or not. The government generously created the preconditions and then drew back. The grant of a Floor Area Ratio of net 4.0 / brutto up to 6.0 would let the market take care of the rest and transfer the rural-origin population into upscale condos, cementing their final arrival at the center of urban society. The conservative community would willingly cooperate. Unlike in many other transformation areas, there was indeed no collectively organized contestation, but only partially fierce individual bargaining.

After two decades that read like a criminal novella, the outcome is now visible: future residents are moving in, pavements are being finished, and hyperactive real estate marketing is flooding social media. Fikirtepe — the site of an 8,500-year-old Neolithic harbor settlement; a semi-rural area in the late 19th century, famous for its mansions and farms growing okra and strawberries; and, from the 1950s onward, one of the earliest working-class gecekondu areas on the old Ankara highway — is expected soon to reach a population density of 1,076 residents per hectare. Worldwide, this is second only to the infamous Mong Kok in Hong Kong (1,300 residents per hectare).

The 130-hectare area was declared a special project area in 2005, an urban transformation area in 2007, and a high-risk area in 2014. Due to fierce individual bargaining, rapid expropriation regulations were enforced in 2015. When private developers on 40% of the total area went bankrupt and failed to finish their works, then simply evaporated around 2020, with the banks carving their debts into the land deeds, the Ministry of Environment, Urbanization and Climate Change had to take over the projects in order to prevent a scandal on a massive scale and limit the damage to political reputation. The taxpayer and the former post-gecekondu owners have paid — and are still being asked to pay — the costs. Organized community efforts emerged only afterwards to sue the ministry and the developers.

Fikirtepe is a place of superlatives in both process and outcome. No other recent development has been more fiercely criticized by the scholarly community for its dystopian qualities. The standards of the 25–30 story settlement, which soon 140 000 people will call home and 60 000 their workplace, are simply catastrophic in terms of climate-change compatibility, green space, mobility, public amenities, and disaster preparedness. On the other hand, Fikirtepe is the first high-rise mass-housing area that is not explicitly gated, reflecting an attempt to create a walkable, Manhattan-like public space at ground level. Too weak a consolation?

During the Retreat, Ebru Kurt Özcan will give a presentation focusing on the “citizen entrepreneurialism” aspect of the Fikirtepe redevelopment, which forms part of her PhD research. This field trip is offered as a preparatory exploration prior to her talk in Nicea/İznik.

The Flow

• 09:15 — Departure from Elmadağ/Konak Hotel: We will take the subway to the highway ring at Mecidiyeköy, and transfer to the Metrobus to cross over to the Asian side. Total travel time is approximately 35–40 minutes.
• 10:15 — The “Terminal” Hub: Before starting our walking tour in Fikirtepe, we will spend some time at the “Terminal”—the new transportation hub for Kadıköy featuring commercial infrastructure and public facilities.
• 11:00 — Fikirtepe Exploration: In the densely packed Fikirtepe area, we will explore various public and communal spaces, sales offices and possibly access some interiors. Encounters with local actors will be a mix of planned meetings and spontaneous interactions.
• 13 15 — Transfer to Kadıköy and walk to Yeldeğirmeni: After Fikirtepe, we will proceed by subway to downtown Kadıköy. In the neighborhood of Yeldeğirmeni, we will visit the site of a demolished apartment building currently subject to urban transformation negotiations. This spot holds personal history: It was once the family home of the tour leader’s grandparents at the waterfront – before the 1970s coastal landfill. The house was redeveloped by his grandmother into an apartment building in the late 1970s and pulled down in 2025. A company which inhabited 2 floors of the demolished building has temporarily resettled to Fikirtepe. (Visit of their office in Fikirtepe requested)
• 14:00 — Lunch at TAK: The site is only steps away from TAK (Tasarım Atölyesi Kadıköy), where we will meet up with the other groups for lunch and later for the workshops to evaluate the fieldtrips.

 

Physical Conditions & Info

• Terrain & Elevation: Tepe means “The Hill” in Turkish. Fikirtepe is a hilltop plateau situated roughly 30 meters above the Metrobus station (starting point) and 50 meters above the subway station entrance.(finishing point)
• Walking Distance: We will walk no more than 3 kms within 2 hours in Fikirtepe. In the Kadıköy/Yeldeğirmeni section, we will walk an additional 1.5 km, with the final stretch being a gentle uphill slope.
• Difficulty Level: Altogether, this is a moderately difficult excursion.
• Snacks and Coffee: Can be easily purchased at various corners during the stroll. Invitations by Real Estate agents may be expected, too.
• Group Limit: 9 participants.

 

• The field trip will be conducted by Orhan Esen.
• Email: orhan@urbanitiez.com coordination@inura26istanbul.net
• WhatsApp: +49 152 3842 5003
• Signal: +90 535 57 00 325